Sunday, August 7, 2022

South Manitou Island (I'm not 17 anymore.)

 A long time ago I was seventeen years old, heading into my senior year in high school, and looking for a job. I found one. The best job ever. Youth Conservation Corps with Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore. My Dad was super proud. He had been in the CCCs program as a teen.




It was while I worked in the YCCs that I was introduced to South Manitou Island. This is also where I first got poison ivy. 

So a bunch of teens from 16 to 19 years old, I believe, lived together in an old hotel on the mainland near Sleeping Bear Dunes five days a week, going home on the weekends. Then we got to go to the island and stay for TWO SOLID WEEKS!

Now, back in 1979, there were still people living on the island and it was a lot different. I think it was most awesome for us because we got to talk to the families most familiar with the island and the history. It was an uneasy time, though, as the National Lakeshore was relatively new and families were being kind of ousted in order to protect the lakeshore and history. But on the island we were treated well. 

It was 43 years ago. 

I fell in love with the island, the light house, the old growth cedars. The cabins we lived in were full of mice and ants inside and garter snakes outside, and we only had power for a short bit each evening to cook and wash clothes in old wringer washes. These are the kind of memories that are the best no matter what. I would give a lot to go back to those days.

So, my beloved and incredible husband knew how much I wanted to return to the island. And on the spur of the moment (mostly because we couldn't find anyplace available to stay in the Upper Peninsula) He booked us to camp on South Manitou Island.

You go to Leland, Michigan to start the journey. At the base of Fishtown, you will find the ticket office for the Mishe-Mokwa. 





Another thing that changed is that North Manitou Island became a part of the National Lakeshore. It is way bigger than South, and has deer on  it. They host hunts every year for population control as there are no natural preditors there. IT is huge!









The shoreline kept going and going...



And then, the Lighthouse was in sight. HOME!


What we didn't realize was that Camp (We chose Weather Station camp) was a mile and a pinch away from the docks. We also had a crap ton of stuff with us. There are no stores, no electricity, no wheeled things allowed for campers (including rolling luggage.) Toilets are few and far between. No showers. It is RUSTIC. We also didn't realize both days would be so stinking hot! So, two sixty and some year old people who sit down a lot for their jobs start walking. And walking. And walking, We found people part way to the camp. They told us it wasn't much further but they also said that island miles are a LOT longer than real miles. They were absolutely right. 
We finally found camp. then we had to go a bit further for a camp site. Finally we got to set our stuff down and rest on a seat for a bit. Then we decided to go down to the beach. 
Now, back in 1979, there had been a nice sandy beach near this campground. We had actually slept on the beach one night! But this is what we found when we managed to get to the lake.
Getting to and from the beach was exciting, too. Especially when you are so tired!



Around this bend is the wreck of the Morezon
This cool rock had crystals inside it. There were a few like it.

Back to camp after that. We ended up  sleeping on the hard ground which naturally had roots in it. Lots of campers had these really cool folded up pads to sleep on. We did not. No pillows either. 
The campsite!

Sunset through the trees.

Tired. So so tired.
I was so sad to realize walking six more miles to see the old growth cedars would probably kill us both. I had thought the island was smaller, more manageable. What I didn't realize until then is that forty-three years ago, it was! 
The next morning Tom woke up and took half our stuff back to the dock. He thought he had disappointment me with this trip. NO! I had disappointed myself. But I was pretty proud that I had made the walk, carrying the back pack and my camera pack. I did it and I didn't die! He came back and we broke camp. We did stop at the light house and talked to the volunteer there for a bit.. 
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We opted to try to take the tractor tour around the island. This is kind of a new thing and it happens once a day after the morning Ferry arrives with the day trippers. I thought I would get to see my beloved trees, but when we got to the stop, you had to hike to them. I just couldn't.  But we did see the Lodge with the amazing view and cidar apple trees and so very much poison ivy...



Yep. Poison Ivy.






Whats left of the Francisco Morezan,  which wrecked in 1960 on Thanksgiving.











One of the old cedars that fell a long time ago...

The tour ended and a story ended in my heart too. I can work up to being fit enough to do these things, hike to the Old Growth Cedars and even to the Perch Dunes. Or not. I do think I need to work on getting more exercise. But the romance of my memories is not what I found here, this trip on this island.
The romance I found even more proof of is that my husband, who promptly gave our tent away before even leaving the dock, loves me enough to go on a trip like this with me, even though it wasn't any thing special to him. The trip ended with us being hot, exhausted, dehydrated (our fault) and hungry (again, our own fault). And still absolutely in love.
He doesn't want to go back. I kind of do, but with a different focus. And a little more preparation. 

There is a great need for volunteers to help keep the Manitou Islands in good shape. There is significant erosion damage from this past couple years of high water damage, lots of buildings needing restoration, trails that need repair, and much more. In fact, volunteers are needed on the mainland as well! For more information, go to: 
https://www.nps.gov/slbe/index.htm
Or go to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore on Facebook.